MCM Electronics

HDMI 5x1 Switch By Distributed By MCM (33-10535) MCM Part #33-10535

3 stars 3 reviews
MSRP: $109.00
You Save: $76.01 (70 %)
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Easily switch between multiple HDMI sources while running a single HDMI cable to your high-definition display

  • Extends the range of HDMI compliant device by equalizing and reclocking the HDMI
  • Included discrete IR remote control allows users to switch sources from across the room
  • Auto sensing inputs allow switching between only active HDMI sources

  • Specifications Top

  • HDMI 1.3 compliant
  • HDCP 1.0/1.1
  • Video formats supported: up to VGA 920 x 1200 and HD 1080P
  • Video amplifier bandwidth: 2.5 Gbps/250 MHz
  • Power consumption: 20W (max)
  • External power supply included: 2 Amp 5V DC for 110V source
    Part Numbers
    MCM Part #:33-10535
    Distributed By MCM Part #:33-10535
    Package Specifications & Dimensions
    Weight:1.92 lbs.
    RoHS Comp:Yes
    Warranty:90 days
    Need to Return?
    Length:10 in.
    Width:8 in.
    Height:2.5 in.
    Shipping Information
    Extra Shipping Charge:No
    Drop Ship:No
  • Product Reviews Top

    • by teschoen

      on 3/12/2016

      It is okay.....

      Overall: 3 out of 5

      I'm using this HDMI Switch for 4 devices to hook to my wall mount TV with just one HDMI cable.

      It works okay, however I've found port 1 is mostly useless in my application as I don't want a cable sticking out of the front.

      I also have an Aura TV box hooked into the switch. It will not work in ports 1, 2 or 3. And when I leave the TV off for a while with the Aura on the switch sends invalid input to the TV.

      My other devices work great with it

    • by SonicMirror

      on 3/24/2014

      Great little switcher - in theory

      Overall: 3 out of 5

      How can I give 5 stars on the one hand, and pan the same product with a single star for quality?

      The 5 stars are because this is a good form factor for an HDMI switch. The credit card remote is fine on its own, or as an IR code source for programming of your multibrand remote. Good call on the front mounted HDMI port for portable devices like a smart phone with a special HDMI micro to full size HDMI cable. An intriguing feature is a "touch" sensor for advancing to the next numerically higher input. Auto sensing seems to prioritize #1,#2,,,#5, with a further override for last device turned on. Due to a series of unfortunate events described below, I have a tip on the internal switch architecture that will help you select inputs #4 & #5 for troublesome devices or gaming platforms. Internally are two cascaded 3 input / 1 output chips. The first three inputs are on chip A, then feed into the first input on chip B. This means that those three inputs actually have to go through two chips. If latency is an issue during gaming, it could be preferable to use the second chip only for such devices. The power brick is narrow so fits well on the back of an AV receiver's courtesy AC outlets or a power strip.

      Now for the disappointing workmanship issues... As I unpacked the unit, I powered it up on its own with no connections to test the remote, and to add IR codes to my ARRX18G remote, which I'm quite fond of. This process went very smoothly, with all codes being recognized (some had to be reloaded to prevent a pause in switching). I noticed that the IR sensor port on the switch itself protruded somewhat, and at some point I touched the black IR dome with a fingertip. From then on, the remote commands no longer controlled the unit in any way! Light tapping on the unit did not return it to normal function. Despite the presence of a security sticker over one screw, I took the unit apart and visually inspected the solder joints of the 3-pin IR sensor. Sure enough, the center pin was a void with no solder, with just incidental contact with the edge of that through-hole. Having the appropriate ESD safe soldering equipment handy, I resoldered that hole, and restored normal IR remote operation. Once I reassembled the unit, I noticed that several times the unit would reset to the first input on light handling. It turned out that there was a film of some sort on the DC plug, and that needed to be polished off before consistent power was available for the unit.

      I've now had the switch in service for a bit longer than a week, maybe two tops. It is out in the open so heating should not be an issue. As mentioned in another review, the input indicator LEDs are VERY BRIGHT BLUE, and cast an actual light on the wall opposite the TV screen, thusly also directly into your eyes, unless creatively redirected/shaded. Perhaps in part because of this relatively high drive current, the 5th input LED no longer lights up at all, but the input still works normally. Actually, on several occasions when both my XBOX 360 and PS3 were on at the same time, with the PS3 in pause on a movie, and playing GTA V on the XBOX, it would switch over randomly from #4 to #5. Turning the PS3 off solved the problem, but this implies that sometimes autosensing could get tripped up and inadvertently switch inputs on you unexpectedly.

      In a first person shooter, that can get you killed!

      The odds are decent IMHO that another user may not have any of these issues with their own new HDMI switch, and will enjoy the affordable functionality without any hassle. In my case it was easier to analyze and effect a repair than to request an RMA to get a replacement. Be aware that your own attempts to tinker within the unit's cabinet will likely void your warranty!

    • by hack_875

      on 3/22/2014

      IR conflicts with other Stellar Labs IR units.

      Overall: 2 out of 5

      Product is a good unit. Just what I wanted... Switches between units as you turn them on, so you rarely have to reach for the remote for the unit other than to turn it on and off (Note: When on, the led is extremely bright, which can be distracting if in your line of sight, so you will want to position slight askew if next to the unit you are viewing).

      Rather disappointed in that I will have to return the unit. The IR codes for switching between HDMI ports are the same IR codes that Stellar Labs uses for its up and down arrows on their remotes. I have the DT-1200 HDTV over the air converter that also acts as a DVR recording out the USB port to a .5 terabyte external drive. So, when I'm using that Stellar Labs DVR and either changing channels or navigating the menus, the HDMI switch moves from input to input. Very frustrating, as I GOT this unit because I bought the DVR from MCM (Which I love) and needed to attach more HDMI feeds to the TV than it has ports.

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